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Natural and Forageable Dyes

Dyeing is an ancient art which predates written records. Indigenous dyeing techniques included sticking plants to fabric or rubbing crushed pigments into cloth. The methods became more sophisticated with time and techniques using natural dyes from crushed fruits, berries and other plants, which were boiled into the fabric and gave light and water fastness (resistance), were developed. Today, dyeing is a complex, specialized science. Nearly all dyestuffs are now produced using synthetic compounds, which are often incredibly harmful to the environment. On the contrary, many practitioners of the craft of natural dying (i.e. using naturally occurring sources of dye) maintain that natural dyes have a far superior aesthetic quality which is much more pleasing to the eye and in addition is a far more sustainable practice. (Pethias Mulenga, 2022)

In many of the world’s developing countries, however, natural dyes can offer not only a rich and varied source of dyestuff, but also the possibility of an income through sustainable harvest and sale of these dye plants. Many dyes are available from tree waste or can be easily grown in market gardens. In areas where synthetic dyes, mordants (fixatives) and other additives are imported and therefore relatively expensive, natural dyes can offer an attractive alternative. The knowledge required for sourcing and extracting such dyes and mordants is, however, often not available as extensive research work is required to identify suitable plants, minerals, etc. In Zambia for example, there is a wealth of plants available for producing natural dyes, but due to lack of knowledge of the processes involved in harvesting and processing the plants, little use is made of this natural resource. (Pethias Mulenga, 2022)

It is therefore our goal at Twaabane Textile Studio to make use of 100% Natural Zambian dyes in our production process through employing two core elements. The first element will be the revival and use of Indigenous Zambian Knowledge of wild and foragable plants and naturally occurring elements like tree bark, fruit, clay and ochre in the dyeing techniques that we employ. The second element is the use of discarded agricultural and botanical material, some of which comes from the organic agricultural waste of the Bulimi Garden Project.

We are embarking on this project as we strongly believe producing our natural and forageable range of dyes has an overall positive impact for both people and the planet. 

This project is oriented around:

• Low-environmental impact,

• High social impact

• Cultural heritage preservation and Indigenous Knowledge

• Local ecosystems